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THE INSIDER by Akorn Southeast Asia brings you the inside scoop, secrets and local insights into our Asia. We reveal the best places to go and what to do during Southeast Asia’s green season, and we why we choose Lan Ha Bay over Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. We also share our personal picks for our Top 5 favorite eats and cultural festivals that are worth jumping on a flight for and this month’s insider interview tells the story of two cool chicks and their love affair with cheese that created a social enterprise in Laos.
Destinations that Shine in the Green Season
Who says you shouldn’t travel to Southeast Asia during the Green Season? Travelers who shy away from visiting this region between May and September, a period often referred to as the “Green Season”, miss out on some of Southeast Asia’s best moments. For Tim Cook, Akorn’s Country Manager of Thailand, Cambodia and Laos, this is one of his favorite times of the year.
“I personally love travelling at this time of year because the heat has eased off a little (although it’s pretty much always warm here) and the landscapes are lush and vibrant,” says Tim, “everything from the grasslands in Thailand to the mountains in Northern Laos are filled with many shades of green, creating those amazing picture-perfect moments that make your friends at home jealous.”
We also love the Green Season because it offers better value for money, with many hotels offering reduced rates or other added benefits, and you can feel like a true explorer and have some of the most popular tourist spots all to yourself without the high season crowds. Here is our Akorn Insider guide to the best places to visit during the Green Season:
- Tropical Island Life in Thailand – the islands in the Gulf of Thailand enjoy a longer dry season compared to Phuket and the Andaman Sea islands. Travelers visiting during July and August can avoid the rains and still enjoy the exotic Southeast Asia island vacation they always dreamed of in Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao or Koh Kood.
- Pagodas and Lakes in Myanmar – The “dry zone” of Myanmar, including Bagan and Mandalay, remains relatively monsoon-free throughout the year. Intermittent rains turn the usually dusty, arid plains of Bagan into wonderful green hues that surround the thousands of ancient pagodas – a remarkable sight to be seen.
- Culture and Beaches in Vietnam – Central Vietnam typically enjoys great beach weather between April and September. Stroll through the ancient town of Hoi An, visit the royal capital of Hue, or escape to the pristine beaches of Nha Trang, Da Nang or Ninh Van Bay.
- Remote Getaway in Cambodia – See the ruins of Angkor surrounded by lush green jungle without the crowds! Then head to the islands off the coast of Sihanoukville where short showers rarely get in the way of a day of sun, sand and sea.
- Nature and Nurture in Laos – Luang Prabang in northern Laos offers amazing value, with enticing deals to be had during the Green Season. In addition, the famous Kuang Si Waterfall becomes even more impressive and the lush natural mountains and forests are simply charming.
Contact us now to get more “in the know” information about where to travel during the Green Season.
Why We Love Lan Ha Bay
Fewer boats, fewer people and unobstructed views of serene natural beauty – Lan Ha Bay remains one of Vietnam’s best kept secrets. While travelers continue to flock to Ha Long Bay for its iconic limestone outcrops and dramatic karst scenery, few are even aware of the wonders of Lan Ha Bay, which lies just around the corner and offers equally stunning views without the crowds.
Quieter and lesser-seen, Lan Ha Bay is just a two-hour drive from Hanoi, offering far more flexibility and convenience compared to Ha Long Bay, which is a three-and-a-half-hour transfer.
Cruise through the surreal, almost mystical landscape with Ginger, the newest vessel in the bay with 12 large suites. Stop to cycle around Cat Ba Island and meet the inhabitants of a local fishing village who go about their daily work in much the same way as their ancestors. Back on board, guests enjoy a cooking class with the chef along with world-class dining, a tai chi session in the crisp early morning and a chance to experience the Lady Ginger Spa.
Contact us for more information about the Ginger Cruise, or for more touring recommendations in Lan Ha Bay.
Our Top 5: Mouth-watering Eats Worth Traveling For
After tasting bun cha at a humble roadside stall in Hanoi’s colorful old quarter with Anthony Bourdain, former US President Obama famously declared his love for Vietnamese cuisine! Grilled pork in a delicious broth served with fresh rice noodles and a mountain of herbs – this simple, yet flavorsome dish is the pride of Hanoi. Dip the noodles and herbs into the broth and enjoy!
Taste the best bun cha in town with Akorn, dining among locals in the heart of the old quarter, as part of our Hanoi Culture and Cuisine experience.
2. Kanom Krok (Lao Coconut Cakes) | Luang Prabang, Laos
An ingenious mixture of rice flour, sugar and coconut cream delicately fried in a special cast-iron pan, these Laotian coconut cakes are crunchy on the outside and soft and creamy on the inside. The coconut cakes are served in pairs, with two hemispheres placed together to form one delicious ball of coconut-y goodness.
Catch this coconut cake seller at Luang Prabang’s early morning market, where we love to take guests just after a traditional tak bat ceremony in the town center.
3. Mohinga | Yangon, Myanmar
You have not visited Myanmar unless you have tasted Mohinga! Rice noodles served in a tasty fish soup, served to each individual’s liking by adding crunchy fried chickpeas, coriander, red pepper and a hardboiled egg. Yum! Traditionally a breakfast dish, you may catch the street hawkers carrying a long pole on one shoulder with a pot of soup on one end and the noodles and other ingredients on the other.
Taste the delicious flavors of this dish at the hip Rangoon Tea House in Yangon, one of our favorite spots in the city for authentic local flavors.
4. Fish Amok | Siem Reap, Cambodia
Fresh fish marinated in a thick curry of coconut milk, eggs and a concoction of spices is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed to create a soft mousse-like sensation known as amok. More modern versions of the dish are prepared in a wok, retaining more of the liquid from the sauce. In either case, the small packets of flavor are typically served with rice and heartily enjoyed throughout the day.
Each fish amok stall in Cambodia offers their own unique flavors, but our favorite is Malis Restaurant, where the dish is served with an elegant yet traditional flair.
5. Khao Soi (Northern Thai Noodles) | Chiang Mai, Thailand
When stepping off the plane in Chiang Mai, the first thing we want to eat is khao soi! A specialty of northern Thailand, the crispy egg noodles with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime is simply irresistible. The piece de resistance is the aromatic broth made of curry and coconut milk, which creates a unique blend of creamy, spicy and tangy - simply delicious!
Our pick for the best khao soi in Chiang Mai is Lamduan, on the east side of the Ping River, where guests can experience delicious food in a very local neighborhood.
How a Mid-Life Crisis Turned into Buffalo Cheese in Laos
After turning away from their corporate successes, Susie Martin and Rachel O’Shea moved their young families to Luang Prabang, only to discover the one thing it lacked was cheese! We chat with the dynamic duo of Laos Buffalo Dairy about their social enterprise, the birth of a new industry, and the under-utilized resource of buffalo’s milk in Laos.
Q: Where are you from and how long have you lived in Luang Prabang?
A: Susie’s family is from Sydney, Australia, while Rachel’s family is from Boston, Massachusetts. We fell in love with Luang Prabang when we came here for a holiday in 2012 and decided to move here two years later.
Q: Why did you choose Laos as your adopted home?
A: Laos is the Asia you would imagine if you have never been to Asia before – laid back people, unique culture, beautiful temples and scenic countryside. Our children ranged in age from 8 – 12 at the time, which was a great time for them to experience something really different.
Q: What was the motivation for creating a Buffalo Dairy in Laos?
A: Basically, you can’t have a mid-life crisis without cheese! As friends, we had traveled to Sri Lanka where they make a delicious curd from buffalo milk, which we ate every morning for two weeks. So when we came to Luang Prabang and saw all the buffalo, we assumed that they would have buffalo milk curd here too. Turns out, we were wrong! After realizing that Laos farmers were not used to milking their buffalo, we turned to YouTube and learnt how to do it ourselves. The things you do for the love of cheese!
Q: Can you describe some of the challenges in getting this project off the ground?
A: A buffalo is worth approximately US $1,200, equivalent to the average annual salary in Laos. It is basically a walking insurance policy. If you are sick and have to go to hospital or if you are getting married and need to pay the dowry, you sell your buffalo. So when we asked local farmers if we could rent their female buffalo and use their milk to make cheese, they were quite hesitant to risk such a valuable asset and skeptical about trying something so new and unheard of in Laos.
Q: How have local farmers and villagers benefited from this social enterprise?
A: Laos Buffalo Dairy has been designed as a social enterprise. By renting buffalo from local farmers, we open up a new revenue stream for them. Our aim is to reach 100 milking buffalo by the end of this year which would see a collective income across those owners of US $20,000 per annum. Product sales and tourism are the revenue that make the business sustainable.
At the same time, we have implemented a government-approved breeding program which has resulted in much improved survival rates for calves born at the farm. A female buffalo typically spends nine months with us, during which time we test for diseases and provide vaccination and feed them a good diet of corn, cassava, rice bran and bananas. At the end of the program, the farmer receives not only an additional income, but they get back their buffalo in a healthier condition with a calf that has a greater chance of survival. In addition, we return the buffalo pregnant again with a new calf that has better genetics, as part of our breeding program.
For the local community, we offer free workshops on how to look after not only buffalo but other domestic animals such as pigs, rabbits and chickens and we also receive regular visits from students and teachers from the local agricultural college who gain practical experience with our on-site vet and visiting specialists.
Q: What has been the reaction from the community and visitors to the buffalo dairy so far?
A: At first, the farmers were afraid we would take their buffalo and have a barbecue. So now that they know we are not going to eat their buffalo and they have seen that the cross-breeding program is not producing any aliens, they are generally quite receptive to bringing buffalo to the farm! Since our first crazy conversation with one local village chief, we have built trust with the local farmers and shown that we will do what we say we are going to do. The village has also changed the way they manage their buffalo; regularly giving vaccinations, avoiding in-breeding and storing more food for the dry season.
Generally, visitors pass through the following range of emotions: surprise at finding a dairy in Laos, amazement at the scale and community involvement model, delight as they get up close and personal with these gentle giants and finally contentment as they indulge on mozzarella, ricotta and feta cheese, yogurt, cakes and many flavors of ice-cream including lemongrass and coconut - all made with buffalo milk!
Q: How do you see the farm developing in the future?
A: We are looking for impact investors to help us expand to 200 milking buffalo by the end of next year, allowing us to increase production and start exporting. We also plan to roll out a program for farmers to show them how to milk their own buffalo and improve the nutrition of their children by cooking rice with milk. Finally, we have a vision of copying this model in other countries where more farmers can benefit.
Include a buffalo cheese tasting and dairy farm visit in your Luang Prabang travel plans. Contact us for more information.
Plan Ahead to Be Part of These Extraordinary Festivals!
There is almost always a festival happening somewhere in Southeast Asia! Colorful pageantry and solemn rituals steeped in tradition, these festivals offer a unique insight into local culture, often becoming the highlight of the guests’ journey. Here are the highlights coming up in the next few months, so plan ahead to be part of these amazing experiences.
24 October 2018 | A Splash of Excitement - Boat Racing Festival, Laos
In the World Cup of dragon boat racing, animated crowds gather along the river banks in Luang Prabang and Vientiane (dates may differ) to cheer on teams of up to 50 rowers in each boat, fiercely paddling their way towards the finish line.
19-22 November 2018 | A Spiritual Place - Shwezigon Pagoda Festival, Myanmar
Traditional dancing, live music and open-air theatre, plus a procession of candlelight and fireworks make this one of the most spectacular festivals in Bagan. The festival bazaar brings together a variety of food and handicrafts made by local villagers.
23 November 2018 | A Visual Feast - Loy Krathong & Yi Peng, Thailand
Rivers, lakes and canals across the country are lit up with floating lanterns made of flowers and candles known as kratong. In northern Thailand, the Yi Peng festival occurs on the same day and is marked by paper lanterns floating in the sky.
Book with us now to take part in these amazing moments. Or check out our Festivals Calendar for more inspiration.
The Inside Scoop from Around the Region
Art Vietnam presents Gang of Five Chancing Modern, featuring five of Vietnam’s most renowned artists, in Ho Chi Minh City until 9 September 2018.
Our sister company, Sanctuary Ananda in Myanmar, is the first river cruise in Asia to be awarded a membership to the distinguished Chaine des Rotisseur culinary association.
Rosewood has announced their first property in Myanmar, a stunning heritage building in the heart of Yangon, due to open in late 2018.
Thailand has achieved its first UNESCO Global Geopark in Satun, a province neighboring Krabi and Phuket, where natural forests meet ethnic villages and wildlife.
One of the most exciting new openings in Chiang Mai this year, Raya Heritage is now available for booking, featuring touches of elegant Thai design on the edge of the city.
For more information about anything you have seen in this newsletter, contact our knowledgeable Destination Specialists in Thailand, Cambodia & Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam.
Check out our archive for more Insider news, ideas and travel information:
THE INSIDER by Akorn Southeast Asia June 2018: Family Fun Experiences, a New Chartered Cruise on the Mekong, our Top 5 Shopping in Southeast Asia, an Exclusive Interview about Art & the Secretariat in Yangon, A Traveler's Tale and News from the Region
THE INSIDER by Akorn Southeast Asia May 2018: Hoi An Lantern Festival, Photographic Journeys in Southeast Asia, our Top 5 Must See UNESCO Sites, an Exclusive Interview with Nicholas Downing, General Manager of The Siam, and Special Offers from Rosewood Luang Prabang & Phnom Penh
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